Aiguille de Mesure and Adolphe Rey

On August 1, 2013 by Tim Neill

Having a mini break with my mate Keith. He’s on his annual summer alpine binge before a spell of work in Switzerland. The great spell of weather ended temporarily in a dramatic 24hr downpour which filled the streets with puddles and the high mountains with fresh snow. So plan A was shelved again and a few new objectives found to help acclimate and let the hills clear.

An early start from Col du Montets saw 2hrs of zig zagging to the foot of the Aiguille de Mesure and a great looking route called Moby Dick. 9 pitches up to 7a/b on steep rock reminiscent of Crafnant back home in Wales (if you’ve been you can appreciate the emotions) brought a new pointy summit. The view into the back of the Argentiere cirque and towards the Jorrasses was of super plastered snowy rock. Confirmation! Cool day though and nice to be in a place a lot less travelled. Saw just one hiker making their way up to the Col de l’Encrenaz (busy with ski toures in springtime).

Next morning we headed through the tunnel to Courmayeur and up the lift to the Torino hut. A quick tramp over the glacier to the foot of the Pic Adolphe Rey and an eye catching route called Le Corsair. Perfect granite and very spicy climbing for its grade. One pitch in particular (pictured) was pretty runout and traversy, so was plenty exciting for both of us. A great, memourable climb and fairly different to the well protected cracks hereabouts…like climbing on the Rainbow slab back in Wales but prettier rock and view!

Cux pitch on Le Corsair....Welsh slate style on Granite!

Cux pitch on Le Corsair….Welsh slate style on Granite!

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