Bruised Violet, Beinn Eighe

On February 8, 2014 by Tim Neill

Straight after work in Glencoe a bunch of us headed to Torridon for a days climbing on the mighty Beinn Eighe. The forecast held true and we all had an amazing climb. I was climbing with Nick Bullock and the drive North flew by as we caught up on stuff. The very early start was pretty rude and I wish the walk to the top of the mountain had been as easy. We split company from Rudders and Keith who were heading to climb the classic Sundance and joined a few others heading down to the West Central Gully wall as it got light enough to switch off head torches. The wild abseils landed us in a mixed and ice paradise with more brilliant routes than you know what to do with.

Dawn on the top of Ben Eighe.....ridiculous behaviour!

Dawn on the top of Beinn Eighe…..ridiculous behaviour!

Lee on BSFT, the West Central Gully wall essential

Murdoch and Lee quested up the classic Blood, Sweat and Frozen Tears. Duncan and Andy made short work of the mythical Fowler route West Central Gully and Nick and I shuffled rightwards to the foot of a monumental towering groove called Bruised Violet. It was a pretty impressive sight to say the least. I set off up the first pitch of a summer E1 called Chop Suey which gave great mixed climbing all the way. Then Nick made steady progress whooping his way up the next 2 (very meaty!) pitches. They delivered some of the best sustained mixed either of us had climbed…and Nick filed the route in his top 5 Scottish routes. High praise indeed. It was all the better as the route had its first ascent from some friends of ours…Ian Parnell and Andy Turner a few seasons ago. It deserves lots of attention as it is totally wild. Some of Ian’s photos….http://ianparnellphotography.blogspot.co.uk/2009/03/aaaaaaahhhh-yes.html

Nick giving the route the “Stare”….top of Pitch 1

A beefy roof high up

We met Dave Evans and Dave Hollinger on the top of the crag…they’d just enjoyed the classic Central Buttress. The light was gorgeous and the views of the Torridon peaks magnificent. We all made it back in the daylight…bonus!